Cholula, Puebla
By Dorothy
Bell
Photography by
Bill Bell
"Water
That Falls In The Place Of Flight"
A Cool Summer Destination
Cholula is one of my
favorite colonial cities in Mexico; especially in the summer. When the beach
communities like Cancun or Cabo are so hot that your tanning lotion starts
steaming, Cholula is mild and inviting. The altitude keeps the temperature
down and the nightfall rain cools the evening air. Last summer we stayed for
a month and at times we even slept with a few blankets to keep warm.
Cholula's charm, however, is much more than temperate weather.
Nuestra Señora de los Remedios Church with its famous yellow
walls tops the largest pyramid (by mass) in the world
The City of Cholula is situated 12 km outside of
Puebla, the Capital City for the State of Puebla. It is a
small colonial city know for it's plethora of Catholic churches;
many of which are built over pre-Colombian monuments by the
Spaniards. The Cholula Pyramid is a prime example where the
spectacular yellow Nuestra Señora de los Remedios Church is
built on what appears to be a hill.
On closer examination, it is clear that the hill is
a pyramid. The enormous pyramid, larger in mass than any other in the world
(including those at Giza Egypt) rises up on the relatively flat landscape of
the area dominating all manmade structures and buildings in the area. Only
Popocatepetl,
a towering active volcano, rises up along the horizon and surpasses the
pyramids height.
The history of the area stretches far beyond the
arrival of Cortez. Cholula was considered a major religious landmark by the
pre-Hispanic populations, on par with
Teotihuacan
and Tula. It is said to be the oldest continually inhabited city in the
hemisphere with a 2500 year history. Cholula was created in 1700 BC from two
separate villages and became the largest center of the area. It is believed
that work began on the pyramid around 1000 BC and that the city became an
important religious and ceremonial centre.
While
smaller than
Teotihuacan, Cholula remained
independent of the larger centre and survived after the empire collapsed.
The population continued to inhabit the city for centuries.
Inside the Nuestra Señora de los Remedios Church
The
pyramid’ construction continued as various native populations moved into the
area. The Olmec-Xicallancas added to the structure when they located in the
city and they greatly added to the expanse. In 1000’s and the arrival of the
Toltec-Chichimecas more building took place and the centre gained more
prominence. Cholula evaded the Aztec invasions and became an important
trading centre. The Toltecs incorporated the worship of Quetzalcoatl
into the religious beliefs and Cholula became the “Mecca” for pilgrims
throughout the region. Cholula became known as the city dedicated to
Quetzalcoatl.
Hundreds of church steeples, said to be 365, mark the sky-scape of the city;
one for each day of the year.
Why the pyramid was covered with earth and
overgrowth is unclear. We do know that with the arrival of the Spaniards the
city was flourishing. Cortés called Cholula "the most beautiful city outside
Spain." One story has it that when the Conquistadores were approaching the
city that they covered it with earth so that it would survive the impeding
onslaught. Another more colorful version has the Cholulan’s inviting the
Spaniards into the city in an attempt to ambush the army. The plan was
discovered and Cortés retaliated by massacring the people and vowing to
replace all the citys 365 pre-Hispanic temples with a church. Today atop the
great pyramid overlooking the city, you can see hundreds of Catholic
churches with colorful domes fulfilling Cortés revengeful promise.
Today
Cholula remains a small interesting colonial city. Boasting a population of
60,000 inhabitants, Cholula is a university town, (University of the
Americas) with young people congregating everywhere. The East side of the
main plaza has interesting cafes and music playing daily. There is a daily
market to explore.
The famous active volcano Popocatepetl or Popo as the locals
call it, looms
above modern-day Cholula.
It is an interesting town to visit. The warm
spring-like temperatures make easy walks around the city and even walk up
the steep driveway / walkway on top of the pyramid to the
yellow Nuestra Señora
de los Remedios Church. If you go in the morning you are most likely to see
“Popo” with it’s white snowy glacier covered cap in the distance. Sometimes
you can see a smoke plume rise as much as 8 miles high.
Explore the museum at the base and even tour the
tunnels inside the
pyramid itself. There are vendors near the exit that sell local
colorful pottery – some of the best in Mexico – revered for its
fine detail and blue decorative motifs.
Tunnels inside the Pyramid
Daytrips to nearby Puebla, population 1
million +, are also in order. It is only 12 kms to the East and easily
reached by bus or Taxi. It is considered a world treasure (registered by
UNESCO) because of the beautiful colonial architecture. It is also
considered the cultural capital of the area with a multitude of parks,
events and galleries sprinkled liberally throughout the city.
Where to Stay
Las
Americas RV and Trailer Park
Cholula’s “Las Americas Trailer Park”
has good RV camping with full hookups. There are tall secure walls and a
security guard 24 hours a day so you can make day trips and even an extended
visit to Mexico City without worrying about the rig. Park and take the bus
to Mexico City, thereby avoiding the traffic, congestion and Mexico City
Police officers.
“Las
Americas Trailer Park”
click to next page Photo Journal in Cholula
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